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Unread 12-24-2014, 06:13 PM   #21
YYCSupra
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Oh, and I figured out how to take off the door panels without breaking the door lock covers. What you need to do is remove all screws and parts from the door and pop it loose, then take the door lock cover off last. I kind of tried lifting the door lock cover while sliding it a bit forward and it just popped off nice and easy. It worked great on both sides of my car.

In my old cars I would always break the damn thing trying to get it off (of course I would always take the door lock cover off first rather than last).
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1990 Toyota Supra, Black w/ Burgundy Pearl, Turbo, Targa w/ Grey Leather
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Unread 12-27-2014, 12:18 PM   #22
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Probably the most "glued on" piece I have seen on our cars... lol. Everyone seems to break them. I have a new pair waiting for my leather.
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Unread 12-28-2014, 06:17 PM   #23
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The door lock covers actually aren't hard, you push them forward until the back frees, then pull them out. As long as you're careful, it's not hard. Most people seem to need to break a set or so before they really get it. (I broke mine back in the 90s, when replacements were still available and cheap.)

I got the retro-spec 6.5" pods for the rear, but I want 6.5" pods up front, too.
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'89NA-T, 499,XXX kms
Part-out in process, RIP

'90T, 289,XXX kms
What I need to fix:
Stereo construction needed.
7M-GTE needs to be broken in
Should install Walbro fuel pump

eBay F1 clutch pics.
NA-T engine swap pics
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Unread 12-29-2014, 09:44 PM   #24
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I think I broke 2 sets in my old car. I was delaying taking my door panels off just because of the damn lock covers. I read somewhere to take them off last and it worked like a charm. I did quickly try and take them off first but they were rock hard and I couldn't move them at all.
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1990 Toyota Supra, Black w/ Burgundy Pearl, Turbo, Targa w/ Grey Leather
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Unread 12-29-2014, 09:55 PM   #25
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So I basically removed my entire interior except the dash this weekend to get at my rear speaker pods. I bought some Infinity reference 5.25" speakers for my rears and I had to do some minor modifications to make them work. In the first picture you can see these little bumps that cause fitment issues.


I had to trim a bit right by the old screw holes to get the speaker to sit flush.


I then had to trim the rear side panel a bit as it was resting on the speaker. I put the panel in place and marked it up and used my Dremel to trim the panel a bit.





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1990 Toyota Supra, Black w/ Burgundy Pearl, Turbo, Targa w/ Grey Leather
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Unread 12-29-2014, 10:03 PM   #26
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Some pictures of the disaster that is my trunk.




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Unread 12-29-2014, 10:21 PM   #27
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On Christmas day I thought I'd have a look at Vision's website to see if the amp I want was on sale yet and boy was it ever. I ordered the Kenwood KAC-7005PS which is a 5 channel amp that should very easily run all my stereo equipment. I have 6.5 and 5.25 Infinity Reference speakers and an old Sony Xplode 12" sub that I bought for my first supra. The 6.5" are 60W RMS, 5.25" are 45W RMS, and the sub is 350W RMS. The amp is about 700W RMS if I remember correctly (1200W max).

I got this amp for $166 +GST, what a deal!
http://www.visions.ca/Catalogue/Cate...&sku=KAC7005PS

I was planning to mount the amp on the underside of the spare tire cover however the damn amplifier installation kit only had 17' of 4 AWG wire for the power. I need at least 20'. I'm hoping their installation bay will give me the extra few feet I need. I did some reading and they do say you should not mount an amp upside down as the cooling fins won't be doing their job if they are not right side up. I hope it's going to be okay. I really don't want to mount it under my passenger seat. I think my old amp died from being under there.

Anyone have any suggestions for mounting it differently? I might consider mounting it under the spare tire cover but not sure I have the room??? Hmmmmm.
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Unread 12-30-2014, 03:26 AM   #28
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1. 17' of 4AWG ought to be enough to mount the amp in the trunk. I did it with 16'. The trick is to run the cable down the left hand side, and through the cable passage in the left side footwell (Where the fuse box is in LHD models, the relay box for RHD ones.) then under the door sill and through the back.

2. Amp cooling is all about airflow, not necessarily the direction that the fins point. Use a small computer fan (Plan to replace often, as they don't last with automotive power sources very well, not to mention the dusty, shaky environment) and it won't matter what orientation the amp is in. If you plan on mounting in an enclosed space, you'll need forced cooling of some sort, regardless.

3. Power handling ratings on speakers mean next to nothing. Unless they tell you what they rated the speakers at, it's useless information, but it's hardly ever POWER that destroys speakes, it's distortion. I've run "10W" speakers at 60W (And a REAL 60W, none of that Max Music Power crap) for months on end, and never had a problem. I've also turned "100W" speakers into smouldering craters with the same amp, just to prove a point.

At 2.2" tall, it's a little high to fit under the spare tire cover, but if you're willing to cut a hole in the cover and carpet, it actually might fit nice. (Actually RHD cars seem to have a different panel back there, so not sure.) That about brings it flush with the carpet surface in domestic market A70s.

That said, there is a way to mount under the passenger seat for better durability. Don't mount it to the floor. Mount it so that it is actually mounted to the underside of the seat. Better still if it slides back and forth with the seat, so it's never exposed to shoes. just make sure that the cables have a nice route so that they can move with the amp and not get pinched. Not exactly a nice display mounting, but practical, good anti-theft, since it's a lot of work to get to and will keep the amp out of harm's way.

For the amp itself, hard to say. 1% THD is actually pretty bad, audible to even the most tin-eared kid, and will destroy your speakers in no time flat, but that's the newer EIA rating system, also meaning that it's only tested at 1kHz. My amps are rated to 0.005% THD from 20Hz to 20kHz, for example, and under the EIA rating system come up nearly 35% higher. As such, I'd guess that you're looking at a real rating of 25-30W X4+250W X1, provided that the input stages are reasonably clean, making the frequency selection less important. (Kenwood makes some decent stuff, and some real junk, but that's about everyone this last 15 years or so. The trick is figuring out which is which.) the rating might be lower, too, depending on other factors. the sub output is probably class D, which typically has higher distortion, but it matters less, since it's high frequency, which the sub doesn't play, even if it gets. And as for MAX power, it's a useless stat for any manufacturer, and I generally ignore it. It's basically a marketing number with little or no basis in reality.

The good news is that 25W of nice clean power will seriously out-perform 45W of deck power for sound quality all day, every day. Also the "real" 350W or so that the amp is really capable of putting out is fine for the 4AWG wire that you'll be running, which is more good news, since you won't need bigger, which starts to become a real pain to run.
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In theory, there's no difference between theory and practice, but in practice, there is.

'89NA-T, 499,XXX kms
Part-out in process, RIP

'90T, 289,XXX kms
What I need to fix:
Stereo construction needed.
7M-GTE needs to be broken in
Should install Walbro fuel pump

eBay F1 clutch pics.
NA-T engine swap pics
Driftmotion Action Stage 3 clutch pics
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Unread 12-30-2014, 11:24 AM   #29
YYCSupra
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Thanks for the info Dan!

Quick question though, how do you get to the footwell of the drivers side (my car is LHD). Do you go through the grommet in the picture below? I think that would take you to the inner tire well right?

I ran it through the same opening as the ECU cable on the passenger side, then down the cable passage way as you mentioned previously. I really struggled putting that cable through so I really don't want to re-route, but maybe it can be done easily...
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Unread 12-30-2014, 01:24 PM   #30
YYCSupra
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I'm hoping my amp can fit without it hitting it anywhere. If you see post #8 in the link below the guy has the same amp I ordered and it is mounted upside down under the spare tire hatch.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...y-Ref-Speakers

I'm probably going to mount it the same and thread my cables similarly, but will see how that goes.

You are right, the sub channel is D class and the Front / Back are A/B class which is pretty run of the mill. What is cool is that this amp has a fan to cool it and the design is a low heat one, so hopefully it won't have any issues. I won't be pounding the stereo much so it shouldn't overheat from that.

I need to buy a new amp for my M3 as it does overheat in the summer and it shuts down which is annoying. I'm running a free air 10" Infinity Kappa sub and it just gobbles up the power.
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1987 Toyota Supra, Pearl White, Turbo, Targa w/ Burgundy Leather
1990 Toyota Supra, Black w/ Burgundy Pearl, Turbo, Targa w/ Grey Leather
1991 Toyota Supra 1JZ Red w/ Grey Interior
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